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Mountain herb based textile ‘DNA verification’ is closing recycling credibility gap

A unique marker applied directly to industrial and consumer waste clothing provides irrefutable proof of material identity. 

Developed by Swiss manufacturer Haelixa, using a non-toxic substance produced from herbs found in the Central European state, the system is remarkably simple.

After use, but prior to shredding, the toxin-free marker is applied to materials bound for the circular economy. A permanent tag which cannot be removed or copied, this unique identifier remains present throughout mechanical recycling processes and any spinning, weaving, dyeing or finishing that takes place subsequently. 

This means that at any point in the recycling and reuse journey, materials can be tested by accredited laboratories using a PCR test. The analysis confirms origin and the presence of recycled materials – or lack thereof.

According to the firm behind the solution, and clients such as Hong Kong-based New Focus Textiles, the system is far more robust and secure than traditional verification methods which rely on documentation and ‘chain-of-custody’ declarations. 

‘Scientific verification strengthens customers’ trust,’ said Jennie Peterson, PhD – Partner at New Focus Textiles. ‘Our buyers no longer need to rely on claims alone. We can verify the recycled origin of their fabrics with forensic evidence.’  

‘Recycled claims need solid evidence,’ added Patrick Strumpf, CEO of Haelixa. ‘By marking textile waste, manufacturers can scientifically prove the presence of recycled content in new fibres, yarns or garments and secure customers’ trust.’

The company’s DNA marker is compliant with forthcoming EU Digital Product Passport requirements, which come into effect imminently. It is hoped that with wider adoption it could help narrow one of the biggest credibility gaps in the fashion and textile industries, and the recycling sector as a whole. 

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